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The Chinese community inwards the Indonesian uppercase knows where to acquire for bully Hakka food: a little eating seat alongside no signage downwardly an alley has been serving authentic fare since 1925, in addition to educating its customers virtually Chinese civilization Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 Chinese-Indonesian diner who asks to live on identified solely past times his root name, Ben, has been a regular at Wong Fu Kie, a Hakka eating seat inwards Jakarta’s Chinatown, since his onetime lecturer took him at that topographic point some xx years ago. 

The identify is legendary amidst the Indonesian capital’s Chinese community, in addition to has been opened upwards for almost a century. Ben’s favourite dish is mun kiaw mien, the restaurant’s signature braised noodles alongside shrimp, pork, fried wonton, push mushrooms, celery in addition to jicama. Wong Fu Kie is located deep downwardly a narrow, nondescript alley beside a branch of Bank Central Asia. It moved to its acquaint location inwards 1975. 

Making it fifty-fifty harder to find, the eating seat lacks whatever signage. Inside, the decor is basic in addition to unpretentious. One of the oldest known mentions of the eating seat was an article inwards Indonesia’s now-defunct Star Weekly magazine on Feb 14, 1953, which translates as: “In Jakarta, at that topographic point are hundreds of noodle shops, selling by in addition to large ordinary fare, but at that topographic point are 1 or ii that stand upwards out. The first, in addition to the oldest, is Wong Fu Kie inwards Kongsi Besar. 

Wong Fu Kie’s noodles are renowned for existence thin, chewy, alongside a seasoning of soft, minced pork, that is sprinkled on come about of the noodles.” Why Hakka cuisine is thence dear inwards Hong Kong, but mightiness non final As late every bit several years agone Wong Fu Kie – which closes at 5pm – was non such a bustling place, Ben says, but “then it got pop on social media”. University pupil Intan Purnamasari root came across Wong Fu Kie on social media when she saw a video past times vlogger Nex Carlos, who highly recommended the restaurant. “It’s already difficult finding Chinese nutrient that tastes authentic,” Intan says. The restaurant’s owner, Tjokro Indrawirawan Kusnadi, has also turned to social media to promote Wong Fu Kie. 

He regularly takes photos of diners – many of whom are families alongside immature children in addition to grandparents – sitting unopen to the tables enjoying the nutrient in addition to posts them on Wong Fu Kie’s Instagram page, which has unopen to 1,800 followers. Tjokro says he knows for for certain that Wong Fu Kie opened inwards 1925 because of an old photograph he has seen dated 1942 commemorating its 17th anniversary. Tjokro – also known past times his Hakka name, Thung Tjok Jin – was born inwards Djakarta to a Hakka manly somebody parent in addition to mother. He is from the 3rd generation of the identify unit of measurement that has run Wong Fu Kie, but employs iv cooks rather than gear upwards the dishes himself. The restaurant’s founder, Tjokro says, was his maternal grandfather, after whom the eating seat is named. Wong Fu Kie’s daughter, Wong Tjaj Jin, took over the identify unit of measurement trouble concern inwards 1965 when the founder retired. The old people; they guide hold a Chinese human face upwards … but they don’t empathise anything. 

What is pek cam kee? What is wong san? They don’t know. I regret that. Why don’t y'all know our culture? Tjokro Indrawirawan Kusnadi, possessor of Wong Fu Kie Tjokro trained every bit a civil engineer but says it would guide hold been a compassion to abandon the restaurant, thence he took it over inwards 2005 when his woman parent became also old to maintain running it. Two years later, inwards Dec 2007, award-winning Indonesian novelist in addition to nutrient author Laksmi Pamuntjak reviewed Wong Fu Kie for her majority Djakarta Good Food Guide 2008-2009. 

Laksmi wrote that “it is all virtually the food, Hakka habitation cooking at its most soulful”. Hakka – pregnant “guest people” are a Han Chinese grouping who originated inwards northern China, but migrated S inwards waves over the past times 2,000 years, to southern Communist People's Republic of China in addition to further afield. Hakka nutrient is salty in addition to fragrant, in addition to the dishes tend to live on heavy in addition to hearty. Tjokro says the dishes at Wong Fu Kie guide hold ever existence authentic in addition to guide hold non been modified since the eating seat opened to a greater extent than than nine decades ago. “All Hakka cooking pretty much includes blood-red yeast rice, garlic, arrack in addition to sago,” he says. “Those are to a greater extent than or less the iv feature elements [of Hakka food].” Another pop dish at Wong Fu Kie is wong san fumak, or stir-fried eel alongside Indian lettuce in addition to blood-red yeast rice. First, the eel is filleted in addition to thence coated inwards sago flour earlier existence deep-fried alongside the other ingredients. Pek cam kee, or Chinese steamed chicken, is some other pop dish. 

The immature chicken is root steamed for virtually 45 minutes earlier existence thoroughly rubbed alongside salt. Plenty of mayu, or sesame garlic sauce, is thence poured over the chicken thence that the meat tin give the axe absorb the flavour. After the chicken has been left to marinate, it is cutting into pieces. More mayu is poured over the chicken, alongside a sprinkling of garlic, earlier the dish is served. Nyuk piang (steamed minced pork alongside Chinese pickled greens). Photo: Randy Mulyanto Nyuk piang (steamed minced pork alongside Chinese pickled greens). Photo: Randy Mulyanto Nyuk piang, or steamed minced pork, is some other traditional Hakka dish served at the restaurant. The pork is steamed for xv minutes earlier existence served inwards lard on come about of a bed of fermented Chinese greens. “It [nyuk piang] is rattling traditional, that is Hakka people’s soul food,” Tjokro says. Book: The Hakka Cookbook – Chinese Soul Food from Around the World He adds that despite having a large expose of tasty dishes on the carte du jour at Wong Fu Kie, the most pop ones seem to live on those that guide hold been highlighted past times bloggers in addition to social media users who guide hold dined at the eating seat in addition to tasted them. 

Mun kiaw mien is 1 such dish, Tjokro says. His woman parent created the noodle dish, he adds, claiming that it cannot live on constitute at whatever other restaurant. Tjokro says that mun-cooked (braised) dishes, such every bit mun kiaw mien in addition to mun tahu (braised tofu served alongside minced chicken or pork) are specialities at Wong Fu Kie. The long in addition to winding route dorsum to a proud Chinese heritage Bloggers guide hold also reviewed wong san fumak, pek cam kee, in addition to sweetness in addition to sour pork. Since novel customers tend to endeavor the dishes they guide hold seen recommended on social media, thence recommend them, other dishes on the carte du jour tend to live on overlooked, Tjokro says. So he tries to recommend option dishes earlier a client places an order. 

Diner Hendrawati Subali, who is at Wong Fu Kie alongside her husband, mother, in addition to ii children, says that despite its basic set-up, many of the customers at Wong Fu Kie are upper-middle class. She tin give the axe tell past times the way they dress, she says. Tjokro admits that exposure on social media has been proficient for business, because it has exposed Hakka nutrient to many curious immature people who otherwise may non guide hold heard of it. On the other hand, Tjokro laments that the ethnic Chinese Indonesians who plough upwards at Wong Fu Kie tend to live on ignorant virtually their ain culture. 

He blames the policies of onetime president Suharto (1967-1998) in addition to his New Order regime, which forestall learning of Chinese linguistic communication in addition to dialects. The LA native inwards Hong Kong who takes visitors to swallow serpent soup “The old people; they guide hold a Chinese human face upwards … but they don’t empathise anything. What is pek cam kee? What is wong san? They don’t know. 

I regret that. Why don’t y'all know our culture?” Tjokro adds that he has fifty-fifty spoken to ethnic Chinese customers who don’t know what Hakka means. “They didn’t know that Hakka is a tribe. So nosotros explained that Hakka is a tribe, only similar the Javanese in addition to Balinese,” he says. Tjokro hopes that Indonesia’s ethnic Chinese citizens endeavor to yell back their history in addition to traditions. “We are proud of existence Chinese.

Here inwards Indonesia, fifty-fifty though we’re a minority, nosotros supposedly guide hold to guard our traditions,” he says. “Understand what that tradition is. Go in addition to swallow Chinese food.” 

Wong Fu Kie located in  Perniagaan Timur II/22, Pasar Pagi Lama, West Jakarta, tel: +6221 6906374. Open 8am to 5pm. Early booking is advised. 

What to swallow at Wong Fu Kie 

1. Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 component subdivision of mun kiaw mien for 1 somebody costs 55,000 rupiah (US$3.80). 

2. Wong san fumak comes inwards 3 sizes: 60,000 rupiah for small, 75,000 rupiah (medium) in addition to 90,000 rupiah (large). 

3. Pek cam kee costs 200,000 rupiah for the whole chicken, or 110,000 rupiah for a one-half chicken. 

4. Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 component subdivision of nyuk piang costs 80,000 rupiah. 

Source of re-create : https://www.scmp.com/lifestyle/food-drink/article/2154919/jakartas-first-and-oldest-hakka-chinese-restaurant-wong-fu-kie